Guanajuato Part II

Known to be one of the deepest silver mines; in the 18th century Guanajuato produced over 50 percent of the world’s silver. For the next three centuries it would keep this title, accounting for a third of all silver.

In addition to precious metals, Guanajuato has rich history; the state where the War of Independence was initiated with the “Grito de Dolores”. A cry that united the rebel army against the Spaniards September 15th and 16th 1810.

A giant statue of El Pípila (Juan Josè de los Reyes Martínez) still watches over the city today; proudly holding his torch in the air.

A beautiful mezcla of the old and new, this UNESCO world heritage town in a MUST SEE, best explored on foot. The streets become so narrow they merge into pedestrian only walkways, networks of alleys and steep stairways that connect neighborhoods up and down the mountainside. Endless exploring…

People watching in the plaza over Don Julio sippers. Bacon wrapped perros calientes with the works. (YUM!)

Going back in time with sweet sips of pulque, tequila’s ancestor… Over 2000 yrs old, this delicious and nutritious beverage is made from fermenting the sap of the maguey (agave plant). Pine nut, oats with berry, peanut and mojito flavor flights…

‘Funicular’ cable car rides to the top of the city, into the sky. Sunsets, cafe lights, panoramic views…

Buying art, eating Japanese food and teaching Mozy how to go up and down stairs…(Not her favorite pastime).

And perhaps the most thrilling, catching the finale of Rally Guanajuato Mexico (thanks to Alvaro for clueing us in!)…

Rally cars racing down the mountains, dirt and gravel clouds shooting off the hairpin turns like cannons above us… flying by seconds later, skillfully sliding across the cobblestones, practically drifting just feet away from us towards the screaming finishing shoot of fans. Whoa, what an adrenaline rush!!

More precious than its silver, the Guanajuato experience is a priceless one!

Getting to Guanajuato

Finishing a van picnic of delicious barbacoa tacos y quesadillas in San Miguel, we were fueled up, looking forward to the Guanajuato journey….well, until the car wouldn’t start…

After unsuccessfully trying to flag down cars to jump us on a busy one way street, we retreated to the taco shop family, convincing them to help us out. (Good thing we had left a good tip for our takeout).

Our new friend pulled up in his big truck, blocking the whole road, standing by our side till Pancho was fired up…Viva la barbacoa 😉 … Eeeeeesshhh…

The battery didn’t want to hold a charge… J had to keep his foot on the gas at all times to prevent Pancho from giving up.

Startling other vehicles in traffic, J would gracefully pop Panch’ into neutral or park at the red lights, gently reving the engine to keep us ‘alive’… An uneasy way to start a 3 hr drive through the middle of no where, with no cell reception.

We died again about an hour later, right in front of the policemen who had just hassled us for not having our front plate on, but conveniently next to a parked cowboy truck.

A few eye rolls from the policía checkpoint, I hopped out, smiling, waving the jumper cables in the air towards the caballeros. “Tenemos cables” …See, all good in the neighborhood…

Cruising over, the men curiously stared at Pancho before popping their hood to get us running again. Tipping their hats, we were off, round 2! Yikes.. still only half way there..

Hot and sweating, we weren’t the only ones heating up… Pancho was getting a little too warm. Temperature, elevation, mood, lots of variables in the mix there…

Finally entering the Guanajuato city limits, google maps stopped working right as we approached the underground tunnels… yea…

We didn’t quite know what we were in for driving in Guanajuato. An absolutely stunning city, it was built in a narrow valley, down one mountainside and up the other.

The streets (originally different river beds) were like intertwining spider webs, woven in, under and around the city. Dipping down into tunnels that would branch off in several different directions… Missing the wrong turn meant winding and ‘gophering’ back around, and around.

Up-down, up-down, up-down. Now you see us, now you don’t.

J was magically juggling the gas and break pedals, we were so close, but Pancho was getting pissed…

A guide on the side of the road offered us a free map and generously helped us trace the route we needed to go in order to arrive at our AirBnB (even giving us a business card, offering his own house if we couldn’t find our reservation).

Simultaneously, Alvaro, our AirBnB host was trying to help us, sending direct coordinates to the residence.

Total chaos, sucking in, holding our breath, as we tried to squeeze through the narrow alleys and streets, barely scraping the side mirrors.

J driving, Mozy and me nervously navigating, right as we made it to the right street, Pancho lost his patience, overheated and shut down in the middle of the street.

Hissing, simmering, we came to a halt, stopped on the cobblestones and shrugged our shoulders at the poor guy behind us… you best reverse buddy.

Tempting to let our spirits sink, Alvaro turned our frowns upside down, emerging with ice cold beers while we waited for Pancho to cool off.

Quite an introduction, we had a decompressing moment of silence with our beers in the middle of the street.

Getting to Guanajuato!

Zihua Brah!

“Zihua brah!!!!” had been on the tip of our tongue since the idea of the trip was born…. “Z-z-z-zihua”, “Zi-huat”, “Zihuatanejo” wiggled it’s way into so many conversations, it was fitting to finally meet the big “Z” during our last stay on the coast and furthest point south in Guerrero.

Quite the contrast to Nexpa, Zihuatanejo was a busy hub for tourism, a beautiful city stretched across the coast and neighboring hillsides.

A major harbor, beach, surf and seafood that attracted people from everywhere.

We were lucky to snag the last spot in the part RV Park, part fancy Restaurant parking lot, called ‘El Manglar’.

At first curious why the restaurant/campsite was called ‘the mangrove or swamp’, it became evident when we spotted a 10 ft+ crocodile just steps away from our margaritas…

The staff quickly advised that all pets should remain ‘on leash’, as the cocodrilos might become hungry.

Peering over the short restaurant fence, feet away, you could see the crocodile watching, motionless, except for the eyes… Which customer would come close next?…

Besides camping with the crocs, Zihua offered great food, beach time, swimming with Mozy pie, hip hangouts like “Loot” where we’d cool off with a cocktail in the afternoon heat, and …more Italian food! Haha!

Loot:

The Italian…

Our finale in Zihua ended with a delicious meal at a little Trattoria in the jungle. Walking up, you definitely felt like you had just stumbled into the heart of Italy. Art, music, down to the napkins and chairs…Italian.

We were shortly greeted by a man, wide as he was tall, just bursting with personality. He sang through the menu and made sure we had plenty of wine to start the night.

After licking our plates clean from the homemade pastas, cannolis and tiramisu, we starting speaking with our new friend to figure out how he had ended up in Mexico.

He smiled, leaned into our table hard and began…”This is-a- very good-a-story… you know, I be in Venice in the Gondola with girlfriend, drinking the wine, having the sex, smoking the pot… falling asleep, having more of the sex again…you know… the pot.. and then-a-one-a-day we do that again, and a-end up here!!…” He started giggling, trying to twist our arm into limoncello but we had to politely decline..too full!!

(We later learned that if he didn’t like customers, he’d literally chase them out of the restaurant or deny them food like the soup nazi…) Lucky for us, we had a warm send off from the trattoria and from Zihuatanejo. 😉

An incredible adventure down the coast, it was time to head inland.

Cataviña

Leaving for Mexico…Round 2! Tuvimos ganas to get down South pretty quickly.

Taking off early in the morning (this time), we were on a mission to the border… I mean to VG’s donuts…and then the border 😉

Veins surging with cinnamon twists; we powered through secondary in a few sips of coffee and were gone.

Destination 1: Cataviña. This curious part of the desert is about 7+ hours from Oceanside. Still quite a drive, it was a good goal for the first day. Coffee, coffee, coffee. There was the thermos of hot coffee, then the cooler iced coffees. Zzzzzzzzzz…

Cafeína cross the livestock friendly two lane highways. Cows, horses, goats, coyotes. (Do not drive at night).

Pulling in right at sundown added to the eerie but fascinating landscape. Similar to Mars but with plants fighting through the crusty surface; like alien hands reaching out their skinny, pointy fingers towards the sky…

We were welcomed at Rancho Santa Inès. There are a few campgrounds/RV parks in the area, but this one was the BEST. Just a short drive off the highway, offering spacious sites near a cool riverbed, and palm tree oasis.

After our sunset walkabout, we agreed it was a ‘cup of noodles’ kind of night before lights out.

Valle de Guadalupe

With storms coming in strong, we decided to give Panchito a little break, stopping in Valle de Guadalupe for a few days. Rainy afternoons + vino = enticing!

Last minute Expedia-searching we found a KILLER deal at Don Tomas Viñedo… Adorable Cabañas, right in the grape vines, for only $50/night….Yes please!

Don Tomas had a gorgeous restaurant (cool construction, open kitchen) that served up the best chilaquiles rojas I’ve ever had, accompanied with fried eggs and house made chili oils. Before we knew it, hours had past over refills of their mouth watering cinnamon coffee.

We befriended the waitress practicing our conversational Spanish and she successfully twisted our arms into generous samplings of their house wines. Pretty sure 4 or 5 came with a tasting, but as we learned more descriptive words in Spanish… “suave”, “dulce como piña”, “àcido como toronja”, “un vino complejo o alegre”…the tastings kept coming! 😉

Finally parting ways, we had an awesome time in the Valle exploring all the back roads. It must have been the rain showers; each place we enjoyed all to ourselves.

A big highlight for me was J’s surprise stop, taking me to ‘The Bodega de Queso” (Cheese Cellar). Walking in, there was sensory overload… a Disneyland of cheese that would fulfill even Ratatouille’s wildest dreams. It was a difficult selection but we did jusssssttttt fine.

Tasty adventure, sampling our way down the line up.. spicy, sweet, aged, stinky haha! We ended up selecting a few ‘favoritos’ and adding in some fresh olive tapenade and moles to-go!

Another noteworthy destination was Vena Cava. Not only were the wines delicious, the architect constructed the winery using old Ensenada fishing boats from the 60’s/70’s… very cool and unique.

We tried to eat at a new restaurant for dinner, Finca Altozano, but all we found was a couch full of perros…Bueno… ¡que lástima! …Some things will just have to wait for future vacaciones!! Dinner picnic in the room it is! 🙂

Rhythm of the Ranas

Our time at the Cañón de Guadalupe went by like a sweet song… rhythm of the ranas (frogs) every night and soft symphonies of little birds in the mornings.

This stay was all about ‘catching up on slowing down’ …

Morning swims in the springs, coffee, hiking, reading, (more soaking in the springs), ukulele-ing, relaxing and trying to absorb the beauty in every direction – mountain ranges and the grand ‘trono blanco’ (The White Throne) in one direction and the canyon desert oasis in the other.

3 days and nights of this lifestyle was like a wellness retreat in a “wings suit” … we felt so relaxed…rejuvenated… invigorated…ready to ‘carpe diem’ the hell out of this 3 month trip! Si… ¡FUERTE!

Directionally Challenged

We all have our strengths and weaknesses…Although it’s improved over the years, with life and traveling, I am OK admitting I can be ‘directionally challenged’ … 😉

Just give me a map and cross your fingers; you might find an entirely new destination… haha!

Finally heading South, everything was going smoothly… easy vehicle inspection and border crossing in Tecate…After the guards questioned the insulation hanging out of the back door, we were on our way!

Pulling off onto the marked dirt road, from my first ‘directions interpretation’, the camp was just 7 miles away.

It was a beautiful sunset as we bumped along the path, slowing down as parts of the way began to get a little … rougher.

As we neared the 7 mile mark, it was clear there were no camps in sight. Luckily there were sporadic signs encouraging us along.

Still in phone reception zone, I tried to pull up additional directions and found the following map:

Yea.. it was 7 miles before two roads rejoined together but a healthy total of 35 off road miles to camp… Saying good night to the last of the sun, we just broke the first rule of the trip… “Don’t drive at night”…

I like to think this doesn’t really count because we were just snailing along beside ranches and olive farms.

As the terrain became more … advanced… Pancho sounded like a shelf of fine china during an earthquake… a wiggling tray of teal jello… well you get the idea.

J was able to maneuver around boulders and creek crossings… a true ‘maestro de manejar’! And, Pancho, maybe he really did have four wheel drive…

Just as we feared we may have to turn around, we found the entrance…

Wooo hooo!

A couple emerged from the dark, guiding us to our site. After burning a little rubber, we were IN!

“¡Que aventura!” The stars were so bright, you didn’t even need headlamps.. Even in the dark, it was one of the most incredible campgrounds…

Our very own private hot springs, palapa hut and fire pit! Excited and tired, we went straight into the hot springs before calling it a night! … Buenas noches!!

Utah: Life Elevated

Ever think a ‘waterpocket fold’ would land in the list of things that excite you? 😉

Well, better add a bullet for this one…

Utah continues to amaze us. J has been more than me, but this third trip certainly was a charm. We really packed it in with this one:

Dead Horse Point State Park, Moab, Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Escalante State Park, Zion National Park…

What’s the longest you can go without blinking?

A trip like this was awesome to scratch the surface, but we were left wanting more… more of each place. There was so much to take in at each location, you didn’t want to miss a moment. And, with some of the back-country dirt roads, you couldn’t really afford to…

As a little girl, I was always fascinated by rocks. I wanted to climb them, collect them, figure out what made them…A roadtrip like this was a dream. Not only the red rocks, but the incredible history and Native American presence in pictographs, arrowheads… aaahhhh!

Pancho was not ready for a haul like this, but our other road warrior, Coco Loco Moco, was up for the challenge. Complete with a rooftop treehouse (as we like to call it); it is arguably the most comfortable ‘glamp’ set up one could ask for. It was a tidbit chilly this time of year, so Mr. Heater Buddy became a close companion.

We weren’t the only ones that were cold..

Pepe, our new fuzzy fellow re-emerged every 5 minutes for one of the nights, to toast his paws by the fire. He was uncomfortably welcoming to the neighborhood which kept me on the edge of my chair for most of the evening, much to J’s entertainment. In his backyard or not, it would have been a very untimely occasion for a spritz of this special outdoorsy cologne. Yep..

Hmmm what else can I say – we were so thankful to spend this special trip with friends, families, loved ones. There were so many happy memories made; I hope when I am older, there will be a special smile wrinkle for this one.

Belay on!

Mysteries

Pancho is full of mysteries… After researching some ‘do it yourself’ YouTube videos, I felt full of ‘internet knowledge confidence’, deciding to roll up my sleeves and surprise J by removing the old carpet from the van floor.

We did have an idea that there may be more than one layer…

I mean, why pick one floor when you could have 3?! Ha! I ripped out the carpet, to find linoleum, to find old wood… While more work than I bargained for, I felt pretty proud of myself for getting the job done.

Sweaty and smiling, I think I missed my true calling as a construction worker…

Pancho definitely had some past lives… if those walls could talk! Cleaning up the last bit together, we found an old, rusted U.S. Government pen. (Favorite find so far…)

I’d like to think that he was definitely an undercover agent. Such an inconspicuous vehicle you know…

Calling it a day, it was time for Pancho’s first surf trip!

Boards packed up, playing some reggae jams, we headed to our favorite local spot. Wiggling into our wet suits, it was a very good taste of our life ahead.

Vacation Days

Big things happening this week:

Transmission rebuild = complete!

Vehicle registration = complete! (Thank goodness for AAA, saving us hours from the dreaded DMV). It felt pretty good getting those license plates…real official….woot!

Costco run = complete. Ha! No, not for the trip, just for life. In the midst of all this craziness, we decided it was a good idea to do a 21 day sugar detox. Stocked up on meats, veggies, almond butter, eggs…sadly had to skip the wine aisle…next time.

The reality of this trip is really starting to sink in. How often does one get to spend 3 months traveling through Mexico?! It really is a rare opportunity; J is in a unique position to make shift trades and my contract is coming to an end.

It’s crazy (for me) to digest that I only have three weeks of work left. Planning the transition, I have been sharing our plans with more and more people. The reactions have been all over the board: shocked, amused, excited, curious, amazed, skeptical, unsure, annoyed, and my favorite, genuinely happy for us.

The truth is: not enough people take vacations and time for themselves.

“Unlike every other developed nation in the world, the U.S. has no mandated number of days off for employees. About one-fourth of American workers get no paid vacation at all. Those whose employers offer it receive an average of about 10 days a year” – https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/why-vacations-matter/index.html

Even with the average of ’10 days’, over half of Americans do not use all of the vacation they earn.

Being at companies in the past, where vacation hours were accrued, I was counting those hours each pay check to plan my next adventure… I would not leave a single minute.

There are so many aspects of life, work is certainly one of them, but should not be the only one. Take the vacation days, discover somewhere new, go for a walk, lay in a hammock. You won’t regret it.

We are excited to live ‘outside the box’ for this upcoming period and fully experience all that life has to offer.