Querido San Pancho

Like a warm hug from an old friend, you are always welcomed back to San Pancho, no matter how much time has passed.

Cobblestone streets, colorful flags, bustling cafes on every corner. It has an international presence, attracting people from all over the globe.

Surfers, artists, musicians, doctors, engineers, hippies, bienvenidos a todos; there is something for everyone.

As luck would have it, we arrived during the annual 3 day music festival! Two stages take over the main plaza, offering a full line up of amazing talent each evening.

Locals and tourists flock in together, bringing chairs, blankets, picnics to hangout and enjoy the show!

Food and goods vendors line the perimeter, selling everything from woven blankets to South American Alfajores (stuffed with dulce de leche) to a booth selling ‘vegan sushi’… (I told you there was something for everyone 😉 )

It was an awesome way to kick off our time there together.

Rewind 20 years, I was lucky to call this place home. My family gave me an amazing, unique experience that has changed my life forever. We moved as a family; my parents enrolling all the girls into the towns public school, la secundaria. (And my younger brother into the elementary school).

I was 13 and didn’t know a word of Spanish (okay… maybe helado (ice cream), dinero (money) and baño (bathroom).

Shy as a kid, it was the best thing that ever happened to me. There were no ‘cliques’ there, everyone was included, any quinceañera, fiesta, everyone was invited and had a good time. It was the most loving, inclusive, beautiful culture to be introduced to. Nicknames weren’t mean, they were affectionate.

Friday nights, a truck unloaded foose-ball table soccer games in the plaza where we’d play for hours with our school mates for a few pesos.

Saturday nights were the DISCOS, where the town gathered to dance the night away… where we secretly had our first ‘wine coolers’ …. Dad smelled right through that mint gum …

Sunday’s were fresh pozole…

There was the stand by the hospital that sold the best burritos, Los Delfines for the best tacos … Angela’s for the famous chicken tortilla soup…

Days were spent on the beach, running through town, ranchera music and laughter filling the streets. Special friendships were made that would last forever…

It wasn’t just friendships, they gave me the gift of language and showed me a wonderful way of life. Drawing pictures and writing words – el flor, flower. It was body language and gestures…Somehow making plans and always showing up.

Moving so many times over the years, it’s one of the few places that truly feels like home, a place that I couldn’t wait to introduce to my partner in crime…

Sensory overload, it was hard to make up my mind on what we should do… so we just tried to do and eat everything haha!

It is a foodie haven… we indulged… Dolce Amore Italian food, tortas, burritos, licuados served in cactus glasses, craft beers, cafe lattes, empanadas, jugos verdes, carne asada, pastas…

The beach, jungle, surfing, a few late nights with friends, giggling and sharing old stories. It was such a special stay with J and my sweet amigos. We stayed four nights and could have easily remained for the rest of our time off…

Our finale dinner was at the Ola Rica (a family favorite restaurant). I know the owners well and we hugged, recognizing each other after all these years. They spoiled us with more drinks… we left SO FULL, I felt like a hard boiled egg.

It’s so hard to say good bye to San Pancho, so I just “hasta luego”… hasta la próxima vez que puedo volver, back into those welcoming arms. Querido San Pancho.

San Blas…Strike of the Jejenes

J said caressing my arm was like reading braille…

By the time we felt the “Jejenes” in San Blas it was too late. The no-see-ums didn’t just bite us…we were A feast; chewed up like corn cobs. (We later learned that area is notoriously known for these evil sand savages). Make a note for next time!

Bites swelling, tummies expanding. Does disaster decide to strike all at once? How does that song go? “As your running into first and you feel a sudden burst… diarrhea…diarrhea…”

(There is a light at the end of the tunnel). After a long night of distressing discomfort, feeling MUCH better, we were in for a treat!

I had been to La Tovara when I was younger and couldn’t wait to go back to experience it again and show J.

Scarfing down banana muffins we had just bought on the side of the road, the boat was leaving in 5 minutes…

Stepping into the little barco, we were headed on a three hour jungle boat trip through estuaries, mangroves full of amazing birds, turtles…and CRIKEY…Cocodrilos!!!

The nature preserve spans for acres and acres. Slowly winding through the water ways, everyone “Oo’d” and “Aawwww’d” as our guide, Eduardo, helped us spot all the wildlife.

Big crocs, little crocs, swimming, sunbathing, some eyes just visible above the waters surface, waiting for their prey… It was like being dropped into the story Jungle Book. It’s so wild looking, it almost doesn’t seem real.

Besides the incredible crocodile close-ups, we were lucky enough to see a Lechuza. In Mexico there is a lot of folklore about ‘La Lechuza’… a powerful witch that can take the shape of an owl by night… Seeing one, you can understand why the legends exist. While beautiful, there is an eerie feeling stirred that can raise a few arm hairs…

We stayed two days in San Blas, camping right on the coast line. Days were swimming, relaxing, eating delicious ceviche. It’s not as touristy; more known as a fishing town with its natural, beautiful lagoons and the cocodrilarios.

Next stop: San Pancho.

The Ferry, An Unforgettable Ride

Heavy bass tones infiltrated our eardrums as we boarded the midnight ‘California Star’ ferry from La Paz to Mazatlán…Unce-unce-unce…

After the chaos of getting in all the wrong lines, and being redirected all over the ferry terminal, finally boarding and finding each other, this scene was the last thing we expected ha! Couples all over the dance floor, a live band and DJ.

We were lucky to snag one of the last tables; no one was sleeping anytime soon…

High hopes of getting a private cabin were out the window. Little did we know, there was a huge motorcycle group, Los Halcones, that had just ridden through Baja and were on their way back to Guadalajara. A plethora of leather clad men and motorcycle mamas who were ready to party!

Early hours of the morning, music still blaring, we folded, like others, into little blanket burritos and attempted to sleep on the bar lounge tile floor…Yoga mats barely comforting our bones from the vibrating floors.

Eventually the borrocho slurs faded away, and our bodies gave way to the fatigue and gentle boat rocking… A blur of tosses and turns, only to be awakened in the morning with a 2+ hour comedy show, coffee, tortillas, machaca and chilaquiles.

What an unforgettable ride across the Sea of Cortez! 😉

Giving each other reassuring, your tired, I’m tired, but we did it looks, we docked in Mazatlán…. Hello Mainland!!!

La Paz

Barely missing the ferry, we found ourselves in La Paz for a few days. Not a bad place to ‘kill some time’… (The ferry from La Paz to mainland MX, Mazatlán, only runs every couple days).

Just like its name, La Paz is a very peaceful city, especially for being one of the largest cities and the capital of Baja California Sur.

Downtown was outlined by the famous malecón, sprinkled every few meters with sculptures… The Dove of Peace pictured above.

Amazing seafood, ice cream stands, calm turquoise-blue water, and white sand…

Lazy, lounging days of free beachfront camping, coffee, little hikes and entertaining people watching… our fav was our ‘jolly’ neighbor who would dip in the water, jog a few feet, skip back into the water, then play racquetball against himself, using their large RV as an opponent 😉

He was a friendly fellow, who enjoyed his food and drink. He even brought us a container of homemade ‘chocolate clam’ ceviche he had prepared the night before… Which I have to admit, I didn’t eat, but appreciated the gesture!

After cave dwelling and tide pool hopping, we enjoyed a nice long shower at Hotel Catedral and a finale dinner at a secret garden pizzeria decorated with cafe lights!

Beaches visited:

Playa Tecolote, Playa Tesoro and the best… Playa Balandra, known for “El Hongo” rock formation. (Looks like a giant mushroom), captured on many Pacifico cans…

Whale of a Tale

It was a Fourth of July firework frenzy of whales on the horizon…I don’t know what registered first when we arrived to East Cape…a splash or spout that first caught our attention…

It was crazy to see that amount of whale activity, all going on at the same time. Our eyes darted back and forth like a competitive foose-ball game, passing the binoculars like a hot potato. There…There…There!

(This pic does no justice so you’ll just have to picture it upstairs, okay!)

A whale popcorn explosion, bursting right out of the water in front of us, over and over… and over.

Entire breaches, fin slaps, belly flops…. the most amazing? A Momma and baby whale playing together, hopscotching their way across. We couldn’t peel our eyes off the show.

East Cape reveals more magic every time. The magician who keeps you guessing, making each visit more memorable than the last…

Not only did we binge watch the ‘whale show’ all day, the evening brought a whole other type of entertainment… the Beach Dairy Princess Parade…

Returning from snorkeling we found the van surrounded by cattle and the solar panels covered in drool (we were so lucky they didn’t get trampled!).

It was a complete spectacle… cows frolicking in the waves like ‘James Bond girls’… It was their time, they’re the boss, and with their mass; you’re just along for the ride, your being, or your vehicle, for their amusement. Period.

San Jose del Cabo

San Jose del Cabo evokes many special memories for us …epic surf trips “rip to the tip“, desconocido wave breaks, beaches privadas, burros curiosos and Cabo Ironman…140.6 miles of heart, grit …and sweat… through the incredible peninsula.

Flooded with fond recollections, we decided to treat ourselves to one night in a hotel, right in the colonial area of downtown.

While the ‘party-place’ Cabo commotion has a time and place; we’ve really fallen for the ‘girl next door’, San Jose del Cabo… less crowded, warm and charming cobblestone streets, delicious restaurants… beautiful, comfy and cozy!

Settled in for the evening, J discovered a rad new restaurant, La Lupita Taco y Mezcal, delivering the most mind-blowing gourmet tacos and a much craved margarita!

My fav was the fresh sea bass with miso infused crema….

Riley, The Captain

Don’t drop the soap in the prison shower…

Haha! Okay, okay, I’m exaggerating… BUT balancing on the slippery cement blocks, NAKED, with a slight breeze and cold water… it was a quick rinse.

Shivering at Punta Conejo, after a few days on the road, we were thankful a little bird told us about the hidden shower…

This beach is filled with secrets.. you would blow right past the turn off, if you didn’t know what you were looking for…

Each morning we awoke to a cotton candy filled sky that would satisfy even the sweetest tooth…

The ocean beckoned to us with an empty line up and fun waves.

And, perhaps, the most memorable of all was the campsite host, Riley…. An older, mischievous man… He was a wild cat that had defied and surpassed his 9 lives.

Now, living on the point, he helps manage the area and occasionally visits the campers. A little rugged at times, his heart was in a good place; we learned some of his adventures but the others were kept locked up… perhaps for the próximo vez.

If he wasn’t memorable enough on his own, he had the most lovable dog, Stinky… a Boston Terrier with cerebral palsy…. Yep… Little stick would hobble on up and wiggle around as you gave her some TLC.

Riley had a watch tattoo around his wrist. I didn’t quite catch the hour… but, as the night got later, and the bursts of La Bamba got louder… we guessed it was Tequila time…

“Yo no soy marinero… yo no soy marinero, soy capitán… soy capitán, soy CAPITÁN.. Ba Ba BAMBA!!!!”

And that’s how we’ll remember Riley, the welcoming Captain of Punta Conejo!

We missed him the morning we took off, so we left a few goodies on his doorstep.

Mulegè

We were sorry to leave Cataviña so soon… many ‘off the beaten path’ places for hiking, rock climbing, spotting chupacabra… We will definitely be back with a four wheel drive vehicle!

Next stop: Mulegè. Another hefty 6 hr or so trek on the sneaky highways. With the twists, turns…pot holes… It made for a real wide eyed, GRIP the steering wheel, dodge a cow kind of time. (I think J actually got an arm workout in, muscling us through the passes 🙂 )

Racing the sun again, we made Mulegè just in time to find the cutest little site at Huerta Don Chano.

Prime real estate at site 12, our ‘room with a view’ bordered an estuary leading out to the Sea of Cortez… absolutely beautiful.

Peaceful, quiet, it was a friendly place ‘eh’, surrounded by our sweet Canadian snowbirds neighbors.

Hazy IPA, jalapeño turkey burgers and kale salad completed the evening. Buen Provecho y buenas noches.

Cataviña

Leaving for Mexico…Round 2! Tuvimos ganas to get down South pretty quickly.

Taking off early in the morning (this time), we were on a mission to the border… I mean to VG’s donuts…and then the border 😉

Veins surging with cinnamon twists; we powered through secondary in a few sips of coffee and were gone.

Destination 1: Cataviña. This curious part of the desert is about 7+ hours from Oceanside. Still quite a drive, it was a good goal for the first day. Coffee, coffee, coffee. There was the thermos of hot coffee, then the cooler iced coffees. Zzzzzzzzzz…

Cafeína cross the livestock friendly two lane highways. Cows, horses, goats, coyotes. (Do not drive at night).

Pulling in right at sundown added to the eerie but fascinating landscape. Similar to Mars but with plants fighting through the crusty surface; like alien hands reaching out their skinny, pointy fingers towards the sky…

We were welcomed at Rancho Santa Inès. There are a few campgrounds/RV parks in the area, but this one was the BEST. Just a short drive off the highway, offering spacious sites near a cool riverbed, and palm tree oasis.

After our sunset walkabout, we agreed it was a ‘cup of noodles’ kind of night before lights out.

Greedy Seagulls

Do you ever feel like a greedy seagull while on vacation?

Just indulging in all things outside the ‘normal routine’…

Perusing the skies like a flying garbage disposal…

Take the back seat kale, move over quinoa… Muah-ha-ha… This BURGER is MINE…

Yessss…

ALLLLL the sushi is MINE…

All the wine….. MINE….

(Disclaimer: This is not an ad for Residence Inn Marriott, however, we were quite impressed with the large complimentary breakfast buffet 😉 ha!)

Hmmmmm…Ahhhhh…. No schedules …. No work, no email…No chores… THE WORLD IS MINE!!! …

Rewinding slightly…after enjoying a few lazy days at Las Rocas, outside Rosarito, we made a game plan and limped Pancho back across the border to the US side. A shop in Santee awaited our arrival and got to work on our little van baby.

While the car trouble caught us off guard, we were lucky to be that close to the border, and still have plenty of time to continue our adventure.

Even back where we started, we realized… we’re still on vacation!! (That’s where the greedy seagulls come flying in… “caw-caw” hahaha!)

We’ve never had this much time to do absolutely nothing at home. Some days we slept in till 10:00 am, others …. extended coffee time (with donuts), English Premier League soccer games, camping in Idyllwild, riding beach cruisers, getting caught in the rain while on the beach cruisers…making it to a special family wedding… taking walks, discussing why dogs shouldn’t wear sweaters…

You know, all the important things… 😉

Okay- fast forward–>

Getting Pancho back from the shop has given us a BIG second wind. Re-packing, re-arranging… with some experience under our belt; we’re raring to go and ready for round 2 in Mexico! Woooooot!!

¡Vámonos!