Guanajuato Part II

Known to be one of the deepest silver mines; in the 18th century Guanajuato produced over 50 percent of the world’s silver. For the next three centuries it would keep this title, accounting for a third of all silver.

In addition to precious metals, Guanajuato has rich history; the state where the War of Independence was initiated with the “Grito de Dolores”. A cry that united the rebel army against the Spaniards September 15th and 16th 1810.

A giant statue of El Pípila (Juan Josè de los Reyes Martínez) still watches over the city today; proudly holding his torch in the air.

A beautiful mezcla of the old and new, this UNESCO world heritage town in a MUST SEE, best explored on foot. The streets become so narrow they merge into pedestrian only walkways, networks of alleys and steep stairways that connect neighborhoods up and down the mountainside. Endless exploring…

People watching in the plaza over Don Julio sippers. Bacon wrapped perros calientes with the works. (YUM!)

Going back in time with sweet sips of pulque, tequila’s ancestor… Over 2000 yrs old, this delicious and nutritious beverage is made from fermenting the sap of the maguey (agave plant). Pine nut, oats with berry, peanut and mojito flavor flights…

‘Funicular’ cable car rides to the top of the city, into the sky. Sunsets, cafe lights, panoramic views…

Buying art, eating Japanese food and teaching Mozy how to go up and down stairs…(Not her favorite pastime).

And perhaps the most thrilling, catching the finale of Rally Guanajuato Mexico (thanks to Alvaro for clueing us in!)…

Rally cars racing down the mountains, dirt and gravel clouds shooting off the hairpin turns like cannons above us… flying by seconds later, skillfully sliding across the cobblestones, practically drifting just feet away from us towards the screaming finishing shoot of fans. Whoa, what an adrenaline rush!!

More precious than its silver, the Guanajuato experience is a priceless one!

Getting to Guanajuato

Finishing a van picnic of delicious barbacoa tacos y quesadillas in San Miguel, we were fueled up, looking forward to the Guanajuato journey….well, until the car wouldn’t start…

After unsuccessfully trying to flag down cars to jump us on a busy one way street, we retreated to the taco shop family, convincing them to help us out. (Good thing we had left a good tip for our takeout).

Our new friend pulled up in his big truck, blocking the whole road, standing by our side till Pancho was fired up…Viva la barbacoa 😉 … Eeeeeesshhh…

The battery didn’t want to hold a charge… J had to keep his foot on the gas at all times to prevent Pancho from giving up.

Startling other vehicles in traffic, J would gracefully pop Panch’ into neutral or park at the red lights, gently reving the engine to keep us ‘alive’… An uneasy way to start a 3 hr drive through the middle of no where, with no cell reception.

We died again about an hour later, right in front of the policemen who had just hassled us for not having our front plate on, but conveniently next to a parked cowboy truck.

A few eye rolls from the policía checkpoint, I hopped out, smiling, waving the jumper cables in the air towards the caballeros. “Tenemos cables” …See, all good in the neighborhood…

Cruising over, the men curiously stared at Pancho before popping their hood to get us running again. Tipping their hats, we were off, round 2! Yikes.. still only half way there..

Hot and sweating, we weren’t the only ones heating up… Pancho was getting a little too warm. Temperature, elevation, mood, lots of variables in the mix there…

Finally entering the Guanajuato city limits, google maps stopped working right as we approached the underground tunnels… yea…

We didn’t quite know what we were in for driving in Guanajuato. An absolutely stunning city, it was built in a narrow valley, down one mountainside and up the other.

The streets (originally different river beds) were like intertwining spider webs, woven in, under and around the city. Dipping down into tunnels that would branch off in several different directions… Missing the wrong turn meant winding and ‘gophering’ back around, and around.

Up-down, up-down, up-down. Now you see us, now you don’t.

J was magically juggling the gas and break pedals, we were so close, but Pancho was getting pissed…

A guide on the side of the road offered us a free map and generously helped us trace the route we needed to go in order to arrive at our AirBnB (even giving us a business card, offering his own house if we couldn’t find our reservation).

Simultaneously, Alvaro, our AirBnB host was trying to help us, sending direct coordinates to the residence.

Total chaos, sucking in, holding our breath, as we tried to squeeze through the narrow alleys and streets, barely scraping the side mirrors.

J driving, Mozy and me nervously navigating, right as we made it to the right street, Pancho lost his patience, overheated and shut down in the middle of the street.

Hissing, simmering, we came to a halt, stopped on the cobblestones and shrugged our shoulders at the poor guy behind us… you best reverse buddy.

Tempting to let our spirits sink, Alvaro turned our frowns upside down, emerging with ice cold beers while we waited for Pancho to cool off.

Quite an introduction, we had a decompressing moment of silence with our beers in the middle of the street.

Getting to Guanajuato!

San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende is a palette adventure of warm pastels… Peaches, corals, oranges, sunflowers… happy, mood boosting hues that inspire energy and happiness.

An UNESCO world heritage site; the city is a work of art in itself.

It’s not just the history, the baroque / neoclassical architecture, but best felt in the richly upheld traditions, flower crowns, mariachi bands, quinceañera princesses floating by and cobblestone streets.

The secret gardens, art galleries, cute courtyards, and the smell of espresso and a freshly baked croissant.

Brownies in bed for breakfast, walks and swings with Mozy girl in Benito Juárez Park.

Three carefree nights and almost four euphoric days.

Of course, a large part of this San Miguel masterpiece is the food…

An incredible 5 course tasting menu at Nómada cocina de interpretación- each dish a ‘framer’, perfectly constructed with chop sticks….

Staring (and chewing) in awe as Carnegie hall guitarist Gil Gutiérrez takes the stage over chiles en nogadas at Bistro Mi Casa.

Rooftop hopping, from pizzas and craft beer at Casa Chiquita to lemon meringue pie and Prosecco at El Pegaso.

The best carnitas torta you’ve ever tasted, potato/cheese/bean filled street tacos and puffing on Cubans in Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel.

Jícama shelled tacos, stuffed with shrimp and tamarind salsa, margarita city sunsets.

We went, we saw, we tasted… (well, not quite enough of that strawberry ice cream).

There is so much to experience in San Miguel. Wherever your paint brush takes you, you can’t go wrong.

Each trip a new canvas to be filled with more of those toasty, heart warming colors.