Bienvenidos a Michoacán

One rabies shot later, we were leaving Manzanillo, Colima, heading towards the Michoacán border.

Bananas galore through Colima. Lush crop fields everywhere; ‘plátanos maduros’ more than anything, piled all over the place. (That is our lasting memory of that state…A beautiful drive, but… hot and humid in ol’ Pancho).

Sticking to our chairs, becoming one with our vehicle, we crossed the border!

Squealing to a halt at the first ‘lookout point’; we peeled ourselves out (just like one of those bananas) to take in the view…

Wow Michoacán…talk about exceeding expectations. The only thing comparable would be the Big Sur coast line on tropical steroids.

Dramatic cliffs, rocks, with pristine beaches outlined in palms down below. Every shade of green making the steep mountainous terrain more impressive. How had we not heard about this before?

Winding our way through the jungle, peering out at the vistas every opportunity, we started looking for lodging.

Narrowing down the options; J picked Marüata… Bienvenidos a Michoacán! Quite an introduction to this magical place.

The long drive was well worth it. Pancho didn’t fit under the camping palapa; so we went with a cabaña…

Mozy didn’t think it was too bad either.

San Blas…Strike of the Jejenes

J said caressing my arm was like reading braille…

By the time we felt the “Jejenes” in San Blas it was too late. The no-see-ums didn’t just bite us…we were A feast; chewed up like corn cobs. (We later learned that area is notoriously known for these evil sand savages). Make a note for next time!

Bites swelling, tummies expanding. Does disaster decide to strike all at once? How does that song go? “As your running into first and you feel a sudden burst… diarrhea…diarrhea…”

(There is a light at the end of the tunnel). After a long night of distressing discomfort, feeling MUCH better, we were in for a treat!

I had been to La Tovara when I was younger and couldn’t wait to go back to experience it again and show J.

Scarfing down banana muffins we had just bought on the side of the road, the boat was leaving in 5 minutes…

Stepping into the little barco, we were headed on a three hour jungle boat trip through estuaries, mangroves full of amazing birds, turtles…and CRIKEY…Cocodrilos!!!

The nature preserve spans for acres and acres. Slowly winding through the water ways, everyone “Oo’d” and “Aawwww’d” as our guide, Eduardo, helped us spot all the wildlife.

Big crocs, little crocs, swimming, sunbathing, some eyes just visible above the waters surface, waiting for their prey… It was like being dropped into the story Jungle Book. It’s so wild looking, it almost doesn’t seem real.

Besides the incredible crocodile close-ups, we were lucky enough to see a Lechuza. In Mexico there is a lot of folklore about ‘La Lechuza’… a powerful witch that can take the shape of an owl by night… Seeing one, you can understand why the legends exist. While beautiful, there is an eerie feeling stirred that can raise a few arm hairs…

We stayed two days in San Blas, camping right on the coast line. Days were swimming, relaxing, eating delicious ceviche. It’s not as touristy; more known as a fishing town with its natural, beautiful lagoons and the cocodrilarios.

Next stop: San Pancho.

Whale of a Tale

It was a Fourth of July firework frenzy of whales on the horizon…I don’t know what registered first when we arrived to East Cape…a splash or spout that first caught our attention…

It was crazy to see that amount of whale activity, all going on at the same time. Our eyes darted back and forth like a competitive foose-ball game, passing the binoculars like a hot potato. There…There…There!

(This pic does no justice so you’ll just have to picture it upstairs, okay!)

A whale popcorn explosion, bursting right out of the water in front of us, over and over… and over.

Entire breaches, fin slaps, belly flops…. the most amazing? A Momma and baby whale playing together, hopscotching their way across. We couldn’t peel our eyes off the show.

East Cape reveals more magic every time. The magician who keeps you guessing, making each visit more memorable than the last…

Not only did we binge watch the ‘whale show’ all day, the evening brought a whole other type of entertainment… the Beach Dairy Princess Parade…

Returning from snorkeling we found the van surrounded by cattle and the solar panels covered in drool (we were so lucky they didn’t get trampled!).

It was a complete spectacle… cows frolicking in the waves like ‘James Bond girls’… It was their time, they’re the boss, and with their mass; you’re just along for the ride, your being, or your vehicle, for their amusement. Period.

Cataviña

Leaving for Mexico…Round 2! Tuvimos ganas to get down South pretty quickly.

Taking off early in the morning (this time), we were on a mission to the border… I mean to VG’s donuts…and then the border 😉

Veins surging with cinnamon twists; we powered through secondary in a few sips of coffee and were gone.

Destination 1: Cataviña. This curious part of the desert is about 7+ hours from Oceanside. Still quite a drive, it was a good goal for the first day. Coffee, coffee, coffee. There was the thermos of hot coffee, then the cooler iced coffees. Zzzzzzzzzz…

Cafeína cross the livestock friendly two lane highways. Cows, horses, goats, coyotes. (Do not drive at night).

Pulling in right at sundown added to the eerie but fascinating landscape. Similar to Mars but with plants fighting through the crusty surface; like alien hands reaching out their skinny, pointy fingers towards the sky…

We were welcomed at Rancho Santa Inès. There are a few campgrounds/RV parks in the area, but this one was the BEST. Just a short drive off the highway, offering spacious sites near a cool riverbed, and palm tree oasis.

After our sunset walkabout, we agreed it was a ‘cup of noodles’ kind of night before lights out.

Despacito

There they were… a stranded, foreign couple in the middle of nowhere, trying to flag down help on a two lane highway, in what J described as a “Dr. Seuss desert forest”.

Oh shoot… did I say “they”… I meant “we“…

You almost always start evaluating yourself from an outsider’s perspective in these types of situations….. “Would I stop for me?”

Haha, not to fear! As a couple, I’m pretty sure this was our 4th time hitchhiking… Yes, we’re real experienced “hitchers” 😉

The last time? Running down the El Yunque rainforest in Colombia, with all our luggage, trying to make the bus back to Cartagena…yes, we did score a ride (sweaty and everything) barely making our autobús. Woot!

We have the different ‘waves’ down…

This one was the forceful, double handed ‘parade wave’, communicating, “Hello, we are friendly… but, Please. Stop. Now. Thanks.”

Moments later, a small cargo truck with two men pulled off to see what the commotion was… Although, relatively calm, I could not remember the word for “tow truck”…

The stage was mine… It was like an anxiety ridden game of catchphrase… motioning and blurting out phrases, “we need a big truck for the van” … “You know the larger one to take the little one”… “The vehicle to put the other vehicle “…

“Una grúa?”…. “Si, si, una grúa”… There was only room for one of us in the cargo truck… (Neither of us wanted to leave the other alone…) After going back and forth regarding our options, the men offered to drive slowly behind us until we made it back to town.

The clanging from Pancho’s underbelly was concerning; we certainly didn’t want to make it worse. Guided to a mechanic, we posted up for a few hours to see if there would be a quick fix…

It was an interesting diagnosis to say the least. The mechanic had a hose cut on both ends and was using it like a stethoscope… holding one end to his ear and moving the other end to the transmission, engine etc. announcing, “Ruida aqui?…no… Ruida aqui…no… Ruida aqui?…Si, es el motor.. Tengo quitar el motor”.

Um… What…Remove the engine?!?! J and I exchanged some ‘I don’t think so’ looks. We quickly asked the mecánico if we could make it back to Ensenada. “Si, es posible…” That was good enough for us and really the only possibility at that point.

“Muy despacito”, he cautioned. Giving understanding nods, we thanked the mechanic for his time and started back North.

Just like the song…

“Pasito a pasito, suave suavecito
Nos vamos pegando, poquito a poquito”

Nervously stepping onto the dance floor, poquito a poquito, 40 mph for over 130 miles. We just kind of held our breath, encouraging each other along in this fragile dance down the highway… While stress was in the air; I’m proud we both did great at focusing on the positive ~ PMA alllll the way. The clattering had subsided some…fingers crossed…

Gracias a dios! Hours later, driving into this familiar area was such a relief… made it back to Ensenada.

A quick stop for tacos later, we were high-fiving; it felt like victory!

Punta Baja

Thick, juicy, gooey MUD.

Hundreds of earthy suction cups grabbed at Pancho, trying to wrap their tierra tentacles around his svelte body.

We were a sailboat in a distressed dirt sea, dodging Lock Ness Monsters!

The roads were not prepared for all the rain; one wrong turn from El Rosario and we were fishtailing through the country side, in search of Punta Baja.

Mi Capitán pulled it off, slipping, sliding, gliding, he manned our ship through the worst of the storm.

Just as the sun was setting; we successfully anchored at our destination: Punta Baja. Man were we excited to see that light house tower.

Pancho stood strong on the point, his proud chest puffed up in the ocean breeze.

Hallelujah… We cracked a beer and took a moment to exhale and appreciate being capsize-free. That was close!

It was our first time to Punta Baja; while we experienced some chaos getting there, the discovery made up for it!

Those who seek adventure will find it! …

Valle de Guadalupe

With storms coming in strong, we decided to give Panchito a little break, stopping in Valle de Guadalupe for a few days. Rainy afternoons + vino = enticing!

Last minute Expedia-searching we found a KILLER deal at Don Tomas Viñedo… Adorable Cabañas, right in the grape vines, for only $50/night….Yes please!

Don Tomas had a gorgeous restaurant (cool construction, open kitchen) that served up the best chilaquiles rojas I’ve ever had, accompanied with fried eggs and house made chili oils. Before we knew it, hours had past over refills of their mouth watering cinnamon coffee.

We befriended the waitress practicing our conversational Spanish and she successfully twisted our arms into generous samplings of their house wines. Pretty sure 4 or 5 came with a tasting, but as we learned more descriptive words in Spanish… “suave”, “dulce como piña”, “àcido como toronja”, “un vino complejo o alegre”…the tastings kept coming! 😉

Finally parting ways, we had an awesome time in the Valle exploring all the back roads. It must have been the rain showers; each place we enjoyed all to ourselves.

A big highlight for me was J’s surprise stop, taking me to ‘The Bodega de Queso” (Cheese Cellar). Walking in, there was sensory overload… a Disneyland of cheese that would fulfill even Ratatouille’s wildest dreams. It was a difficult selection but we did jusssssttttt fine.

Tasty adventure, sampling our way down the line up.. spicy, sweet, aged, stinky haha! We ended up selecting a few ‘favoritos’ and adding in some fresh olive tapenade and moles to-go!

Another noteworthy destination was Vena Cava. Not only were the wines delicious, the architect constructed the winery using old Ensenada fishing boats from the 60’s/70’s… very cool and unique.

We tried to eat at a new restaurant for dinner, Finca Altozano, but all we found was a couch full of perros…Bueno… ¡que lástima! …Some things will just have to wait for future vacaciones!! Dinner picnic in the room it is! 🙂

Rhythm of the Ranas

Our time at the Cañón de Guadalupe went by like a sweet song… rhythm of the ranas (frogs) every night and soft symphonies of little birds in the mornings.

This stay was all about ‘catching up on slowing down’ …

Morning swims in the springs, coffee, hiking, reading, (more soaking in the springs), ukulele-ing, relaxing and trying to absorb the beauty in every direction – mountain ranges and the grand ‘trono blanco’ (The White Throne) in one direction and the canyon desert oasis in the other.

3 days and nights of this lifestyle was like a wellness retreat in a “wings suit” … we felt so relaxed…rejuvenated… invigorated…ready to ‘carpe diem’ the hell out of this 3 month trip! Si… ¡FUERTE!

Directionally Challenged

We all have our strengths and weaknesses…Although it’s improved over the years, with life and traveling, I am OK admitting I can be ‘directionally challenged’ … 😉

Just give me a map and cross your fingers; you might find an entirely new destination… haha!

Finally heading South, everything was going smoothly… easy vehicle inspection and border crossing in Tecate…After the guards questioned the insulation hanging out of the back door, we were on our way!

Pulling off onto the marked dirt road, from my first ‘directions interpretation’, the camp was just 7 miles away.

It was a beautiful sunset as we bumped along the path, slowing down as parts of the way began to get a little … rougher.

As we neared the 7 mile mark, it was clear there were no camps in sight. Luckily there were sporadic signs encouraging us along.

Still in phone reception zone, I tried to pull up additional directions and found the following map:

Yea.. it was 7 miles before two roads rejoined together but a healthy total of 35 off road miles to camp… Saying good night to the last of the sun, we just broke the first rule of the trip… “Don’t drive at night”…

I like to think this doesn’t really count because we were just snailing along beside ranches and olive farms.

As the terrain became more … advanced… Pancho sounded like a shelf of fine china during an earthquake… a wiggling tray of teal jello… well you get the idea.

J was able to maneuver around boulders and creek crossings… a true ‘maestro de manejar’! And, Pancho, maybe he really did have four wheel drive…

Just as we feared we may have to turn around, we found the entrance…

Wooo hooo!

A couple emerged from the dark, guiding us to our site. After burning a little rubber, we were IN!

“¡Que aventura!” The stars were so bright, you didn’t even need headlamps.. Even in the dark, it was one of the most incredible campgrounds…

Our very own private hot springs, palapa hut and fire pit! Excited and tired, we went straight into the hot springs before calling it a night! … Buenas noches!!

Big Bites!!

I don’t think we bit off more than we could chew; we just took a REALLY big bite…;)

Like many things in life, Panchito projects averaged twice as long as anticipated which pushed our awaited take-off by a week or so.

Gnawing and nibbling our way through; we had an epiphany to stop the “rushed” feelings and enjoy this fine dining experience.

I mean, you need to enjoy the appetizer and entree before that dessert!!! Right?!

Once the floors were in, everything started coming together!

(Still working morning to night with: wall insulation… new siding… cabinets, kitchenette… the bed!)

Some nights were a cold beer and take-out in the van or garage 🙂 other evenings required something stronger… “where’s my whiskey!” Haha

The last few days, feelings of excitement are at an all time high. Completing the final touches; it’s sinking in that we’re having a rad start to 2019! Let the year begin!!